Akwaaba!

Weather: Mild and muggy in the mornings under cloudy skies, with temps in the upper 60sF to lower 70s. As the day warms, the sun shows up, the relative humidity drops a bit, and the winds pick up to around 20mph. Daytime temps in the 80s, but nighttime is cool and breezy. Even though this is the rainy "season," we know that this close to the equator we will see a dry period in August between the two short seasons of rain. So we have seen very little rain in our first week in the Accra suburb of East Legon.

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Non-Stop Settling-In

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Is it too soon to say I love it here in the red hills of suburban Accra, Ghana? True, the water sometimes comes in spurts, and it has to be filtered-- but it spurts right out of our taps. No pumping or hauling! And yes, sometimes the city shuts off electricity for a few hours to save energy, but mostly it works. And while the Internet is not really able to stream YouTube or the PGA championship, it comes into our home. No driving miles to a dingy, unreliable cafe. And it is indeed a fact that Accra, like Monrovia, is an equatorial city on the ocean with high humidity. But-- dare I say it? Will saying it jinx it? But, dear readers, unlike the still, stifling air around Monrovia, Accra comes with a breeze! Nobody told me this! Oh, nobody told me! It feels good here almost all the time! Who cares about humidity when you got a 20mph breeze blowing all day? Oh happy, oh, joy!

So, can I say I love it here yet? Naw, I'll wait until the other sandal drops. But I like it a lot so far. I feel the Akwaaba-- the welcome-- of Ghana.

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We've spent a full week here in an almost non-stop selecting, purchasing, signing in, registering, liaising, testing, and adjusting mode. Our nice Ghanaian home (see video below) has nothing in it so we need to buy it all-- bedrooms,

living rooms, office, kitchen, bathroom, electrical adapters, step-downs, regulators, surge protectors, lamps, plates, rugs, pillows, towels, refrigerator, ... but I'm not complaining. Give me cash and a

breeze, my people, and there is nothing I can't buy. The photos to the left and right document our daily taxi rides from our neighborhood, above left, through the city. Click on 'em to see a larger version.

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The kids, Hannah and Noah by name, are now enrolled in the American International School, a new enterprise started just a few years ago with an excellent, professional, dedicated and enthusiastic staff. Tis very small-- only about 6 students in Hannah's 11th grade, and another 5 in Noah's 10th. But that's good; it means individual attention, and there are a lot of kids in the local church-- Ghanaian, German, New Zeelanders, British, and North American-- for them to get to know.

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Last Saturday, Renita and I took an hour out of our tasks and visited an "inventors fair" in downtown Accra, a place where Africans and expatriates ("expats") have worked together to come up with some easy ways to make things work out of odds and ends one might find in a small rural village anywhere in Africa. The inventors had come up with ingenious ways to chlorinate water, create power, process food, and recycle waste. Renita and I found the show fascinating, and may be able to use some of these ideas with others in our work worlds. Pictures of a few of the inventions are below.

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Both Partners Worldwide (PW), Renita's agency, and Christian Reformed World Relief Committee (CRWRC), my employer, remind us that for the next few weeks and more, our main job is to simply get set up and get settled here as much as we can. But we know we came here for work beyond our home, and beyond Accra. Our work will take us both throughout West Africa, and both Renita and I are essentially servants, helpers, even water-bearers to the men and women in cities and villages spending themselves on enhancing the lives of their neighbors and communities. We are patient but eager when we look to our "non-domestic" work tasks. We want to get out there!

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Since it looks like we have safely planted ourselves in Ghana, we want to say thank you to so many of you who extended yourselves, provided housing or transportation while we were there, stored our stuff after we left, paid bills and advocated for us all the time we are away, and continue to uplift us in many essential ways every day now that we are here. We are merely the front-line hands and feet to this work, while many of you act quietly but doggedly, behind the scenes as heads and hearts, path-clearers and bridgebuilders, encouragers and challengers. You pray for us daily, call us on Skype, send us emails, donate real hard-earned cash, occasionally visit us, and always welcome us when we return. I'd love to mention you by name, but there are dozens and I'd forget somebody. I hope you know who you are.

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Here are a few more images.

Renita hunting for housewares at one of Accra's several large, modern stores. Most items are comparably priced to what we saw in the US, except for food. Food is at least 1.5 times more expensive, and some items, like spaghetti sauce, salad dressing, cheese or most meat, are completely out of our range. Hamburger works at about $5.50 a kilo (2.2 pounds per kilo), and I get get a whole chicken for about $6.00.

Now on to the Inventor's fair. These are batteries made from salt water and old soda cans...

...a cassava grinder for making fu-fu...

...a 'cycle operated millet shucker...

...and our favorite, a bamboo-frame bike.

A final shot o' the fair-- finally, something to do with old plastic water bottles, which are otherwise a blight on the world. As Hannah says, "Don't buy water in plastic bottles!" (Unless yer makin' furniture.)

A 5 second home movie. Literally. These our our new digs. Just click on the arrow.

From ORD to FRA to ACC

Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity Jig

We made it to Ghana, and because we are all together, it is home. Actually, it feels like it, after nine months in Limbo in Grand Rapids. Tis Thursday night as I write, I'm still a bit sleepy, but we started Day 1 of our time in Ghana on the run from sunup to sundown getting some of the things we'll need to get up to speed. But more on this settling time later. Here are a few images of the trip. I did not take as many as I needed for some good ones, but it will still paint a picture.

Chicago again. Wasn't I just here three weeks ago? Our friends Tom and Mary Steenwyk carried our eight large suitcases and three bodies to ORD, and it was their anniversery no less. We made it with lots of time to spare.

Our first plane, the one that took us to Franfurt, was an old 747. It was cramped and the packed flight was overnight...

... so the three of us got just an hour or so of sleep each.

At the Frankfurt (FRA) airport, Noah took his traditional sleeping position on the floor. He started really sleeping when we were called to board the flight to Accra. That flight was much nicer, in a new, roomy plane with our own individual movie screen. We landed at 3:15 pm local time, and by four we were united and on our way to our new digs.

Two boring and typical shots of Accra, but I thought you might value further evidence that we are here.

Street bid'ness.

A roomy home-- right now with too much room. The house has a large and open living room/dining room combo, a good sized kitchen three bedrooms, an office room, and a guest room. But oh so empty.

Hannah is still living out of her suitcase and Facebooking like a fiend. By the way, she's already had one marriage proposal from a very earnest looking young fellow as we were out shopping for furniture.

Noah, on the other hand, is a bit of a minimalist.



Together again, two migratory luv burds.

We're Outa Here

Last One Out Turn Off the AC

Hannah, Noah and I leave Tuesday from Chicago O'Hare Airport at 4:45pm EDT. We'll be flying to Frankfort, Germany via Lufthansa Airlines, then on to Accra Ghana. We arrive in Accra Wednesday at 3:30pm local time, or 11:30amEDT.

Our weekend and Monday was spent organizing, returning, canceling, packing, and trying to avoid saying good bye to anyone. Of the three of us, I'm the most happy about going, Hannah the least and Noah somewhere in the middle. We've been talking about it a lot, and I think we are as ready as we can be for moving to another continent with only eight suitcases.

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Meanwhile Renita is an ocean away making purchases and trying to get us set-up in our new home, while at the same time processing her tour of Liberia and Cote d'Ivoire. The house will be rather bare when we arrive, but we'll have beds and kitchen stuff. I'm looking forward to getting a lay of the land and joining Renita in finishing the job she started. Stay tuned; we'll send more images as we travel.

And here it is, waiting for us: our new home! And a new home it is. We'll be its first occupants, and it may be the nicest home we've ever enjoyed.

Renita in Cote d'Ivoire

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From Danane', with Love

As our little map indicates, on Wednesday Renita left Monrovia, Liberia by car to travel to Danane', Cote D'Ivoire. The rainy season has turned the roads to thick, dangerously sticky mud, but she had places to go and people to see. After 10 grinding, bone jarring hours she traveled the 125 miles to the muddy river that represents the border between the two West African countries. At the border, she said goodbye to her visaless driver, and walked with a Ganta LEAD staff member across a sagging wood bridge at dusk, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, 5000 miles from family, to place herself in the hands of customs officials and eventually Dea Lieu, a man she has never met. Dea is the director of ACLCP, an affiliate organization of Partners Worldwide, and thus is one of Renita's co-laborers. Together, they bumped and jostled their way in the dark the remaining 25 miles to Danane'. The trip took two hours. The internet, phone service and electricity are neall spotty in Danane', so after she arrived, we kinda lost touch with her. But Saturday, she came through with an email to us all, giving us a picture of what the trip has been like thus far. On Sunday, she was able to email a few images as well. Here is her letter to us, a view of Dea Lieu's world.

Dearest family,

It was so good to hear your voices today. I'm very glad that the three of you are together again. I can't wait to see you in Ghana.

Here are some pictures from Cote d'Ivoire. It was interesting after we crossed the border and drove to Danane’. I knew that it was rebel held territory, but I didn't really think about it in the active sense. There were young, tough looking men walking around with AK-47s and rifles; the first checkpoint we stopped at had a rebel in some sort of fatigues come up to the car smelling very strongly of opium (according to Dea). Apparently drug use is quite a problem among the rebels. They hold the territory in this portion of Cote d'Ivoire, and there is an awareness of their presence around and an air of anticipation to see if they will actually make a deal with the government or if it will remain as a rebel held territory. There is definitely a sense of being victimized – the citizen’s live here with this around them. Aid and development assistance will not come in until the conflict is resolved, so the organization here (ACLCP) is in some ways not able to progress at a rate they would like. They are doing such a great job despite this and have some real success stories.

The people here have been great - very friendly and welcoming; laughing at my mistakes (I told them Hannah was 60 years old:-); trying to speak English. The Board meeting was in some ways hard - I had two tough issues that to bring to them we needed to address. But we had a very lively discussion and the Ivoirians held their ground on the one issue but came around on the other. After the meeting, however, I heard discussion about rethinking the second issue as well. I was pleased that they held their ground, had researched the issue and were able to support their stand with a good argument.

The other thing about Danane is that there are no white people here; no NGOs to speak of; and yet being white here has not been a big deal, nor has it garnered any attention that I'm aware of. They are so disappointed that we are not moving here and are insisting that there are good schools in Abidjan. They keep talking about it amongst themselves.

That's all for now. My battery is getting low.

I love you all.

Renita/Mom

The best view of these guys-- going away.

Renita with Dea and his daughter Armande walking the streets of Danane'.

Click on small pictures for a larger image.

If it's Monday, This Must Be Liberia

Renita continues on her whirlwind tour West Africa. She left Ghana Saturday after only two days there, but it was time enough for her to secure a house and do some other preparatory activities for when she returns to Accra. For some reason. I keep thinking she’ll one day come back here, but no—she’s not coming back. We’re all joining her there. It’s a weird thought.

Like I said, on Saturday she left Ghana—on her way to our old stomping grounds in Liberia. Immediately upon arriving, she headed straight for Foster Town and the hotel on Thinkers Village Beach. Our old friends and family did not know she was coming, so all were shocked and delighted to see her. Monday is Liberia Day, so there will be a feast and lots of partying around the neighborhood. She’s already met with the leaders of FACT, the local community development group, and offered her wisdom to some local squabbles. Mostly though, she’s just enjoying being back.

The rest of the week will continue to whirl by for her. On Tuesday, she’ll meet with the Partners Worldwide in-country affiliate, LEAD inc, to continue planning and catching up with her old co-workers/friends there. On Wednesday, she travels-- by taxi—into the interior, all the way to the border of Cote d’Ivoire, where she’ll cross that border, and if the roads permit, head into the hills to meet up with the Ivoirian affiliate, and she’ll stay there in the up-country for four days. Quite the adventure for the girl from Red Deer.

Meanwhile, back in Grand Rapids, the kids are squeezing every ounce of fun they can get out of this place. They’ll both be at the Camp Call Turf Adventure Camp until Friday, running through obstacle courses and climbing high ropes. I will be holding down a half-packed fort, waiting to pack the other half and trying to remember what I forgot. We are on the cusp of two phases of our lives, and the view is a bit nerve-wracking and at the same time sobering. Stay tuned, I may have an extra edition for you later in the week.

Why, it's Eastman, running up to greet Mrs Trooly!

... and baby Renita! What a doll. No, she did not recognize big Renita.

My dear wife, with a newborn baby at Eastman and Trokon's house. Thats Eastman's mom looking over her shoulder.

A Family chat with Patence, mother of Rae-Rae (little Renita) in the blue.


Eastman took this shot. That's Enoch, second from left, and Trokon barely in the picture on the right. I don't know the other two.

Taking it easy at Thinker's Village.

Mrs. Trooly Departs

Renita Has Left the Continent

Wednesday was her last day living in the US for this new citizen. Here are the pics to prove it.

Wednesday morning I find her snoozing happily at 5:04 am-- the alarm was set for 5:00pm. Wonder what Freud would say about that.

You can tell by mouth that she's a woman on a mission. By 5:30am is organizing the car.

Driving through that Toddin' Town. Passin' the Loop and the "Willis Tower" (formerly the Sears Tower, ya know).

At ORD (O'Hare airport for the non-travelers) Ready to go!

Yers Trooly makes a scene, begging her to say. Embarrassing.

On the plane. Maybe she's sad too? No, just cold and tired.

Yers Trooly, whimpering as he makes that long drive back to Grand Rapids...

The first image from Ghana-- taken Thursday by Renita. The place where Mrs. Trooly is staying with new friends.

There she is-- taken just a few minutes ago in Accra, Ghana! Stay tuned for more, including-- Images of our new house?!

Four Weeks and Counting (One for Her)

In-Between

Last week for us was one of those weeks everybody has from time to time, but nobody wants. The day before we were supposed to leave for Detroit (for Renita to take the Oath and then try to get a quick passport at the same time), we had to move. Moving is something that has become a normal part of our lives, but this is our fourth in eight months, and to have to move the day before this important task in Detroit is not normal. it made the tension extra high around the Reed household.

But we pack light. While here, we stayed in furnished places so we don't need couches and refrigerators, and were able to stuff everything we own in 12 large suitecases and the all important carry-on bags. So we can do the whole move thing in a few hours. While I moved and lugged, Renita packed and cleaned. All of this with images of Detroit and Oaths and passports dancing in our heads. If something went wrong in Detroit, all of our plans would need to be re-evaluated.

Anyway, Renita and I moved ourselves and, with our new place looking like a luggage lounge, that same day headed off to Tiger Town. We needed to "Motel 6 it" because our schedule for Oath Takers commanded that we be at the Federal Courthouse by 8:30am. We got there promptly on time, and waited until the 9:00am, when the federal judge would make his appearance to swear us in. The was a nice crowd in the large well-lit hall; we were told 84 had come for the ceremony and most of them were not alone.

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The judge was an hour late. As an American, I thought it exceedingly rude that the magistrate charged with welcoming these people to the US for the first time as fellow Americans couldn't bring himself to showing up, and apparently would not allow a substitute judge take over for him. When he arrived at 10:00am, he merely said "Sorry I'm a little late..." then moved on.

The ceremony itself was brief-- less than an hour-- and just like that, Renita was a citizen of the U.S.. It was sorta anti-climactic. Afterwords, we rushed out into the bright sunshine and discovered that just across the street we could get her passports processed immediately! We had been told we might not get in-- we were actually scheduled for Friday and we were apparently "lucky" to get in even then. But when we got through the security barriers and checkpoints, we found the processing center virtually empty! Chortle! We were thrilled, and in no time at all, Renita had all she needed to get her coveted US passport Fed-Exed to her by Monday-- yesterday. And yesterday, it came.So immediately, Renita applied for her Ghana visa and next week, she leaves three weeks ahead of the rest of us.

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I've been in limbo, in this in-between state for longer than I've ever been before, and it has been the most challenging aspect of my life. I left the BSW work at Mother Patern College around June of last year, and since then have been sort of puttering my way through life. Sure, I'm learning the ropes as CRWRC West African Justice Coordinator. But I need to be there, and I'm here. Now, nobody loves to putter more than I do, but after a while, puttering loses its magic even for me and I want to move on to other things. Kind of an inverse relationship thing.

Next Wednesday, Renita leaves the world of In-Between, and lands on the Other Side on the 23rd at 8:25am. Noah, Hannah and I follow August 11. The next two or three blogs will be focused on her adventure, so stay tuned.

ReedNews Update, July Edition

A Pledge, a Passport and a Plan

Now things are moving along with a sense of impending airline travel. As you may recall-- because we have said it a hundred times-- The Reeds have been waiting for Renita's interview with the US Citizenship and Immigration Services (formerly Immigration and Naturalization Service) to be approved for citizenship. Last week, Renita and I traveled east along Interstate 96 to the brand new USCIS offices in Detroit. After a mere hour of waiting, her half-hour interview produced a piece of paper with the anticlimactic checkmark granting her permission to becomes a US citizen. Hallelujah! The people at USCIS were professional, courteous, and helpful. We wanted to stay and chat. We invited them to Ghana. I'll tell ya, The Michigan Department of Motor Vehicles should send its staff there for lessons.

This week, we will head back to the once-upon-a-time "Motor City" so Renita can take the official oath of citizenship, pledging alliance to the US of A. Then, thanks to the new facility in the ex-Car Town, she'll be able to get her passport-- the very same day. The procedure is usually a couple weeks by mail, although in days gone by one could have opted to go to the regional office in Chicago for expedited service. With this new office not far from the home of what used to be General Motors, we can do the passport deed in less than half the time of going to Chicago.

So, what's the plan now? When do the Reeds head off to Ghana? Well, God willing, we'll do this in two parts. Renita will leave first, after she gets her passport and after she gets her tickets and after she gets her visa to Ghana. She is booked to leave July 22. Once she arrives in Accra, she'll do a bit of house hunting with some friends we know there, then within a couple days she'll head off for a 8 day junket back to Liberia and then to Cote d'Ivoire (Ivory Coast). The purpose of these trips will be to connect with the Partners Worldwide friends at LEAD in Liberia and Dea Lieu's operation in Cote d'Ivoire (see May 27 post). While in Liberia, she'll also visit our West African friends and family in Thinker's Village/Foster Town. Then, sometime around the first week of August, she'll head back to Accra and continue to prepare for the Reed reunion there.

Hannah, Noah and I will remain in Grand Rapids until Hannah is finished with her job at Camp Tall Turf. This will give the kids just a little more time with pals here before they start school in Accra on August 17. As the plan goes, we will board a Lufthansa flight from Chicago to its Frankfort, Germany hub, then to Accra from there. We are already booked to fly August 11.

Renita and I have been waiting about four months longer than we thought we'd have to for this to happen, and during that time so many people-- many of you-- have been wonderful and generous and so supportive. As we enter into this new period, we have those by now very familiar mixed feelings. We will be saying goodbye, farewell, seeya later to everyone here. We will be saying hello, good to meet ya, thanks for the welcome, to a completely new West African place. We are all a bit anxious, some of us eager and excited, all of us sad-- some more than others, as we enter this transition we've been anticipating specifically for almost a year, and in a general way for much longer. We're so glad you are with us, at least via the internet and telephones, and happy we'll be able to stay connected. Don't think we could make it without you.

Renita at the swearing-in ceremony. Actually, this hasn't happened yet, I just put her head on some poor woman who was in a picture I found online. But I imagine it will look something like this.

Renita this morning with her new passport. Yes, this is fake too, because she won't get it until we go back to Detroit later this week. The things she endures for Yers.